Final day and campers and b&b'ers met in centre of Helmsdale for the last push. The day started overcast and bracing. The nemesis of every cyclist, the wind, picked up as we approached Dornoch and was right in our faces as we joined the A9 and crossed over the Dornoch bridge. All were flagging so there was a long pit stop in Tain giving everyone a chance to fill their bellies with some hot food and hot chocolate. As we approached Dingwall the weather improved greatly, and layers were stripped off, with some maybe going a layer too far (see pic of Stephen below). Our new support driver Andrew met us in Dingwall with an arm full of bananas and the news he would join us in Inverness so we could all finish the trip together. As we neared Inverness the traffic become heavier but there was the odd respite from the A9 as our route took us through some fine Invernessian scenery; with hills cycled days before now gleaming in the sunshine. As promised Andrew met us in on the north part of the Kessock Bridge and we came over the bridge as a group of 7 once again. There then ensued a hairy ride through rush hour traffic in Inverness before finally reaching our final destination - yes the Tesco carpark it all began in (we really must find a nicer venue to finish in next time). There were smiles all round as Stuart King's wife and kids were there to meet with some refreshing Prosecco. The group then headed home, stopping in Aberlour for a well deserved chippy tea . Where in one car the talk was less about the last few days cycling but more about the smell emanating from the front of the car (although before long a'body else was contributing too).
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The campers awoke to a beautiful sight - the beach at Strathy although the promised early morning dook by Mike never happened. A chilly start, we started off with a bit of a climb out of the campsite and joined Jenny with the news that Andrew may meet us in Thurso. It was wet and windy by the time we reached Thurso and this being a Sunday there was little sign of any coffee shops open. Luckily Andrew had been on the case and found the local tescos had a coffee shop. Just as we got into the car park Mike got a puncture (as good a place as any to get one). We all sheltered from the rain and topped up our caffeine levels. With puncture repaired we set off for John O'Groats just in time for a break in the weather. The hills of the last few days made way for the less hilly moorland of Caithness and it was time to get some speed on. Andrew met us a few miles from Helmsdale (having now picked up his car) and handed out bananas - forewarning us of some steep climbs ahead. He wasn't wrong; first we hit a steep hill on the A9 with sharps bends and then a steep climb on the other side that seemed to go on forever and reduced the speed to about 1 mile an hour. Smiles returned shortly though with a long downhill into Helmsdale. The group scattered to their various lodgings for the evening apart from Stuart King who was determined to join the 100 mile club and being only a few miles short decided to do a few laps of the town. With all refreshed (well maybe not the campers) we all headed to the local chippy, which served portions so huge they even defeated the mighty appetite of Dr Bagguz.
With legs sore from the day before and the torturous hills still fresh in the memory, the group headed down to the ferry port in Durness to catch the ferry to Cape Wrath. What looked like a wee boat headed our way from the other shore, it then dawned on us that this was the ferry. A couple of trips were required to ship us all over, giving us a welcome respite from cycling. On the other side we were met by our bus driver James. Not long after setting off we were thankful that we had decided not cycle this stretch as the road was in a very poor state and very hilly. James regaled us with stories about Cape Wrath and the many vehicles he has gone through over the years in the pursuit of taking folk to the Cape Wrath lighthouse. He also impressed us with the number of jobs and business he has on the go (from lobster fisherman to joint owner of holiday pods). The distance to the lighthouse was only 11 miles but took us over an hour (such were the poor state of the roads). No sooner had we arrived and we were thinking of heading back; with a long cycle now steadfastly in our thoughts. We had lunch on return to the Durness campsite and one of our number was in no hurry to leave having been 'broken' the day before. But with the Musketeers motto wringing in his ears stubbornness gave way to reality ("these people aren't going to leave me alone") and we were off once more. Thankfully the hills were less frequent and steep than the day before but still challenging. When we arrived in Tongue, Andrew told us he would be unable to carry on. A previous muscular injury flared up and he was in a great deal of discomfort; in typical stalwart style he had limbered on for as long as he until the pain become too much. The group split with some heading on to Strathy and others waiting with Andrew. Thankfully he didn't have to wait too long and the rest of the group were reunited en route. It was then a long slog for the remainder of the ride to Strathy; the late start (we didn't leave Durness until after 3 pm) meant we were now rushing to get to the hotel before last orders were taken. Fortunately Andrew arrived in time at the hotel to order one of everything off the menu so there was ample choice on arrival. With light fading fast the group scoffed down their meals and the campers headed to their impromptu camp site - beside a swanky solar powered toilet block and grave yard. Perched up on a hill the site also overlooked Strathy bay with it's vast sandy beach - so not a bad spot! With tents erected ,the campers enjoyed the last bit of light and stunning views whilst quaffing their carryout from the hotel.
Day 2 started well with everyone fired up ready for a long but scenic cycle. Legs were still fresh and with mood upbeat we headed off the main road towards Lochinver. The climbs started getting a bit more frequent, longer and stepper and the blessed downhills seemed to be getting shorter. The speed on the Garmins began to slow down and the milometer seemed to be going in slow motion. First one then another were forced to do the unthinkable - get off and push! By the time the group rejoined the main road to Durness there were some in the group that felt 'broken' and there was still another 30 miles to go. Thankfully the main road had less steep hills but still had hills, there frequency was less but they seemed to now go on for longer. With early evening heading to dusk we arrived in Durness and found our campsite. With no hot food being served in the restaurant we settled for a pile of crisps and a refreshing pint.
A fast day on the bikes! The group left Inverness about 9:30 am with everyone raring to go. A slight navigation mishap had us cycling along the A96 but we were soon back on track and crossing the Kessick Bridge. The lack of open eateries didn't dampen our spirits as we made use of an information shelter on the way to Ullapool and tested our camping stoves. Arriving in Ullapool - there was only one thing on our minds - greasy food! We all topped up on chips and battered items from the local chipper and then went to find our lodgings - for some the local campsite, the local hostel for the rest. A fine meal was had by all in the evening, washed down by a couple of pints. After the success of the day we brazenly forgot what was coming the next day.....
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